tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37751974147501726772024-03-12T21:41:01.482-07:00Clyde's Triathlon TrainingA big father with not much time on his hands started doing triathlons and now has the crazy idea to do track cycling, too. Follow along as the hilarity ensues.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.comBlogger180125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-52099412176924785302015-02-18T13:32:00.000-08:002015-02-18T13:32:52.212-08:00Nutrition Changes<p>The first time I rode the whole way to work, 39 miles, I probably had a bottle of <a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2012/09/michaelade.html">Michaelade</a> and a bottle of water. About 30 miles in I started to feel bad and knew I needed to find a donut shop quick to get some carbs in me. Since then I always ride with a spare gel. Also, I took along some kind of snack on my 40 mile commutes. As time went on and I got stronger, I kept my nutrition the same: one bottle of Michaelade, one bottle of water, and a snack (gel or rice cakes or a waffle snack). I was always fueled up and recovery was much better than it used to be.
<p>Then this past summer I got to reading <a href="http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/">The Rules</a>. <a href="http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#91">Rule #91</a> says no food on rides under four hours. Hmmm. How is that possible? I did some thinking and decided that I needed to experiment a bit. I was much stronger than I was when I started doing these long rides. Perhaps I didn't need as much fuel as I did before?
<p>First up: the snacks. Thanks to the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Feed-Zone-Portables-On-Go/dp/1937715000">Feed Zone Portables</a> cookbook, my ride snacks had improved quite a bit. Peanut butter and jelly rice cakes. Bacon and egg rice cakes. <em>Chorizo and egg</em> rice cakes (not for the faint-of-heart). I actually looked forward to my ride snacks rather than sometimes dreading yet another gel. However, I tried a ride with just the drinks and no snack...and I was fine! When I finished a ride I would drink a chocolate milk and, not only did I feel fine right after the ride but my recovery was still good.
<p>Next up: the Michaelade. I had ditched the energy drink on bus-assisted rides home (only 26 miles) long ago but now I would try ditching it on a ride to work. Since it was during the winter I wouldn't be sweating as much. I did a 39 mile ride to work with just water...and I was fine! Recovery was fine, too. That may change during the summer when those morning rides find me sweating <em>a lot</em> but, for now, I'm not missing the carbs or electrolytes.
<p>How about long rides? Could I get away with just a lunch break in the middle of an 80 mile ride? Last weekend I tried just that, though I did take along Michaelade mix just in case.
<p><iframe height='405' width='590' frameborder='0' allowtransparency='true' scrolling='no' src='https://app.strava.com/activities/255012278/embed/2633601615f08ecaf8450ac0f597dcfe7e903ef3'></iframe>
<p>The ride was okay up to through the halfway point, which was lunch at <a href="http://locations.in-n-out.com/179-Moorpark">In-n-Out</a>. Felt good. Went through a whole water bottle and I drank two cups of lemonade and another cup of water for lunch, so hydration was not a problem. I got going again but about ten or fifteen miles later, I started feeling not-so-great. Not bad but more tired than I should have felt. Time to put that spare drink mix into action! Long story short: I should have had the energy drink in the first place. This was reinforced by poor recovery over the next few days.
<p>Remember that all experiments are usually successes: if you learn something, even if it's not what you expected to learn, that's a success. I learned that when I'm going to be riding much more than three hours, I need, at the very least, an energy drink along with water. Since I took a lunch break I don't think I need to take additional snacks (I did the same ride several weeks ago and felt that a rice cake, in addition to lunch, was a bit much). I want to eat enough to fuel the ride and recovery but not too much, because I'd also like to lose more weight.
<p>So, what's this post all about? That one's nutrition is one's own nutrition. Using recommendations from a book or magazine is a good start but you need to find out what works for <em>you</em>. Then, once you've figured that out, it can change! As you get stronger, leaner, faster, your needs can change. Then there's the weather. One bottle of water may suffice for a ride in the winter but in the middle of summer? Probably not so much. Experiment (with proper backups) to find what works for you. You will learn what you need in different conditions and that knowledge will keep you fueled up during your activity and recovering properly afterwards (and, just like at the gas pump, not topped off).MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-9847521292990461062014-11-09T21:50:00.001-08:002014-11-10T15:03:59.429-08:00My First Criterium: Not Ready for My Second Yet<p>Rode my first criterium today. Got my butt kicked, of course, but we learn from these things.
<p>I had been getting much stronger in the past couple of months so I figured, what the heck. I signed up for a <a href="https://www.usacycling.org/events/getflyer.php?permit=2014-3029">race down in Dominguez Hills</a>, a popular SoCal course. Got there in plenty of time, felt fine, warmed up great. We went off and I held on for a couple of laps but then the pack got away from me. I time trialled as long as I could but got pulled off before the field could catch me with two laps to go. Oh, well. Getting lapped in one's first crit is not an unusual occurrence (and I wasn't the only one in this race).
<p>So, what to do now? First, I put the <a href="http://www.strava.com/activities/217585060">race into Strava</a>. I knew from looking at my computer that I averaged over 22 mph for the race, which is a <em>huge</em> improvement for me. However, this was a race and not a time trial so all that matters is how I did against the other racers. Fortunately, on Strava you can compare your performance with others that uploaded the same race. That's nice because I can see how much improving I need to do. Looks like I need to up my average to 25 mph before I tackle this race again. That is actually very good to know.
<p>What now? Well, this race is part of a series and the next one is in December. I know I'm not ready for that so I think I'm going to take November off the bike and give my body a break. Next, I know if I want to do more of these crits then I need to get serious about losing weight. Like, 20 lbs. serious. That means I'm going to have to make a real effort to eat clean once I get back on the bike. I think I can do that. When I do get on the bike, I need intervals, intervals, intervals. I still don't have a power meter but these intervals will be sprints so I just go like crazy for ten seconds. I can keep track of my progress on Strava by occasionally hitting certain segments hard and looking at the results. When I've brought up my performance by 3 mph, I'll know I can try another race and see if I can hang on this time.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-2980044986825046522014-10-27T13:31:00.000-07:002014-10-27T13:31:59.337-07:00Sometimes It's Just About Being There<p>I like <a href="http://www.strava.com">Strava</a>. I don't get to go on many group rides so seeing how I do against others and myself is sometimes as close as I can get. It also helps me to improve as well as humbles the heck out of me. Nothing like riding <a href="http://www.strava.com/segments/800131">a slightly downhill segment</a> as fast as I possibly can, then finding out that the pros rode that same segment 10 mph faster during last year's <a href="http://amgentourofcalifornia.com/">Amgen Tour of California</a> while they were just cruising. Yikes.
<p>On Sunday I did <a href="http://www.strava.com/activities/211612673">one of my go-to figure eight routes</a>. Not too long but lots of climbing. I've been riding stronger lately so I was curious how I did on <a href="http://www.strava.com/segments/4971978?filter=overall">one of the hills on the route</a>. My second best time, so that was okay. However, I noticed that my personal best put me in the bottom 15% of the riders for that climb. That's not surprising, though, because I am not a climber <em>at all</em>. I can get over hills, I just do it <em>very slowly</em> because I'm so big. Sucks but that's just the way it is. I looked at the leaderboard again and noticed something else: there are just not a lot of people doing that climb. <a href="http://www.strava.com/segments/5980618">Almost 3x the number of people do the descent</a> but because that climb is so hard (not so long but steep, isolated, and it can get hot out there), most cyclists aren't even trying it.
<p>Sometimes it's not about how fast you go up the hill. Sometimes it's just that you go up the hill at all.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-90053243006828236662014-10-14T13:00:00.000-07:002014-10-14T13:00:02.493-07:00An 80-Mile Round-Trip Commute to Work by Bike? WTH?<p>How in the world did I find myself making an 80-mile round-trip commute to work by bike? Like most things exercise-related, I built up to it.
<p>A few years ago I worked at a company that was close enough to me (11 ½ miles) that I could ride my bike to work every other day or so. 23 miles round-trip isn't so bad if you've been riding at least a year. The ride to work was a net downhill and it was close enough that I could get away with "showering" with <a href="http://www.actionwipes.com">Action Wipes</a>. I would already have a change of clothes at work waiting for me. Things were working just fine.
<p>Then I moved and changed jobs. If I wanted to ride to work this time, it was going to be 25 miles each way and significantly more climbing. I did it a few times, still using Action Wipes, but then I had my accident and that stopped my riding for almost a year.
<p>When I was ready to ride again, my new employer had an actual shower I could use. It was in a basement but it was still better than Action Wipes for the new ride. This time it was 28 miles each way, 1,000 feet of climbing to work and more home but I could do it in about 95 minutes to work and 1:50 to home. A workout but totally doable. What I would do was drive to work in the morning with my bike gear, a change of work clothes in bags, and my bike in the trunk. When it was time to go home I'd change into my cycling clothes and ride home. The next morning I would ride back to work, put my bike in my car's trunk, grab my work clothes, take a shower, get dressed and go to work. It worked out rather well until the end of daylight savings time because there were certain parts of the route that I didn't want to ride for extended periods in the dark.
<p>Then last July I changed jobs again (it can be like that when you're a computer programmer) but this time my commute was much farther. To ride my bike would not just be a lot farther (40 miles each way) but, obviously, take a lot more time. I started out slowly, only doing the round-trip once a week. I would also <a href="http://www.strava.com/activities/205070852">take a bus for part of the way home</a>, turning that commute into 26 ½ miles. Then I started doing it twice a week, still taking the bus part-way home. The first time I did the full ride home turned out to be a day when I got food poisoning at lunch. I finished the ride home but the last few miles were pretty tough. It wasn't until that night that I figured out why.
<p>When daylight savings ended I took a month off, then I started riding during lunch. I would try to keep the ride down to under an hour and that worked out fine. I work at a place with some nice rollers nearby so I could hit certain hills hard when I was feeling up to it.
<p>With daylight savings back, I was back to my bike commute. This time, though, after a few weeks I would ditch the bus and do the whole ride home. Because of my schedule, I can do the round trip once every other week, and on the opposite weeks I can do it twice. On the weeks I can only do the round trip once, I try to get in a good ride on the weekend.
<p>We are nearing the end of daylight savings time so I'll be back to doing my noon rides and longer rides on the weekend. It changes things up and I can tackle some of the <a href="http://www.strava.com/routes/1059914">harder rides</a> where I live that I can't do when I'm putting in all those miles to/from work.
<p>Advantages of putting in all those miles to/from work:
<ul>
<li>Saves gas. Really, it does. My drive is so long that replacing any of those trips noticeably helps my pocketbook.
<li>Burns lots calories.
<li>I can tune my race nutrition should I get back to doing longer triathlons. Been loving making different rice cakes.
<li>Improves your urban riding skills. Comes in very handy when riding in traffic during a race.
<li>Put in a lot of miles without having to wake up a lot of mornings at 4am.
<li>Toughens you up. Riding home at 5pm means it can still be <em>very</em> hot out. Riding to work at 6am means it can be a bit chilly and dark out. You learn what you need to do to get through it.
<li>Four words: guilt-free donut Fridays.
</ul>
<p>Disadvantages of putting in all those miles to/from work:
<ul>
<li>It does take time. For me, around three hours. That means when I <a href="http://www.strava.com/activities/185864688">ride home</a> I get there about 8pm and when I <a href="http://www.strava.com/activities/205070862">ride to work</a> I get up at 5:30am so I can leave around 6am.
<li>You will feel tired at work. When you first start doing these, you'll get very tired. However, you'll adapt and won't be so tired. If you have a cushy desk job, like me, that's not so bad, though.
<li>Lonely ride. Let's face it, nobody else I know is going to do this crazy bike commute so I have to do it alone. I'm okay with that, though.
</ul>
<p>I am really, <em>really</em> enjoying these commuting rides. When/if I move closer to work, I'm going to miss them.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-80489288511320188712013-08-19T13:28:00.000-07:002013-08-19T16:31:18.695-07:00My Fun Disaster at the 2013 Hansen Dam Triathlon<p>Though I have moved out of the San Fernando Valley to Santa Clarita, I still consider the <a href="http://www.hdtri.com/">Hansen Dam Triathlon</a> to be my hometown race. It's the race that got me started training and it's a fun course so I try to do it every year. I had to miss last year because of my accident but I signed up to do it this year. However, with my decision several months ago to shift from triathlon to track cycling, this hasn't been a good year for triathlon training. My cycling is better than ever, my runs are limited to once a week, and swimming is pretty much non-existent. Still, I signed up for the race so, if I wanted the race shirt, I needed to do the race.
<p>The big problem is the swim. I just don't feel like swimming much so I haven't done it. So I decided I needed to do at least ONE swim before the race. So, like a good procrastinator, I got in the local pool on the Friday before the race (my first swim in since March 2012). It was pretty horrible. My engine is good but my arms? Not so much. I could swim fifties all workout. Hundreds weren't even so bad. However, when I tried swimming a 200, things got bad. I'm not even sure I made it the whole 200; I might have stopped after 150. When I was done I felt like I was going to be sick. How was I going to do 500 yards on Sunday? Ugh. Horror show. One hope, though: it was my hope that this small workout (just 700 - 800 yards) would serve as a wake-up call to my body and that, somehow, it would respond the morning of the race.
<p>My running had dropped off lately. Between changing apartments and preparing for trial for my never-ending divorce (I know, I know: nobody goes to trial--believe me, it's not my choice), running has taken a back seat for the past couple of months. Still, I knew finishing a 5K would be no problem so the plan was to just cruise through it. A nice jog.
<p>With just my commutes to work (<a href="http://ridewithgps.com/routes/2730066">26 miles</a> from work, <a href="http://ridewithgps.com/routes/2729953">40 miles</a> to work), my cycling is better than ever. I'm faster, spending more time in the big ring, and stronger. This triathlon was going to be all about the bike. I wanted to average at least 20 mph during the bike. I didn't care about frying my legs for the run, I wanted that bike split.
<p>Race morning came and I made the trip to the site. The weather was going to be great: not chilly and not hot. I was so worried about finishing the swim that I didn't even bother warming up. I wanted to save whatever strength my arms had for the race. The gun went off and I waded...slowly...into the water. When I couldn't walk anymore, it was time to swim. Nice and slow. The plan was to breaststroke near each of the three buoys of the 500 yard course to give me some rest time. I got to that first buoy and felt pretty good. Hey, I can finish this! So I did. It wasn't fast but I did finish.
<p>No world-class transitions this year. I walked to my bike, switched gear quickly, and was off. Crap! I get about 100 yards and find out I have a flat. I hadn't even had a chance to get in my shoes yet! Grr. Oh, well. I changed the flat quickly (too quickly, it turns out) and was off again. I started my computer at this point because, while the official clock was ticking off during the flat fix, I only cared about my pedaling time. I was breathing heavily at first but was soon able to get past that and the race was on! I wanted to be in the small chainring to start but once we turned the corner onto Foothill, I would switch into the big chainring when we started that slight decline and stay there for the rest of the ride. I was passing people a lot, especially on hills!, which makes no sense. In fact, I passed about ten riders when we went up that little roller past the All Nations Church. I just got out of the saddle and stomped on my pedals. Nobody from that group caught me on the ride. I got to the top of Hansen Dam and was still going strong. Not quite as fast as I wanted but my average speed was inching up towards 20 mph. When you go past the middle of Hansen Dam, there is a very slight decline (at least it seems so to me) but I didn't get the speed bump up I was hoping for. I figured I just had tired legs so I pedaled harder. Then I found out why my speed wasn't what I wanted: I flatted again. What likely happened is that, in my haste to fix the first flat, I neglected to find out what caused it and remove the little pokey. Sigh. If I wanted to finish the race, I needed to walk it in. The big bummer was that the rest of the course was downhill so I was going to hit my goal. I declare a moral victory.
<p>I walked it in, at least a half mile, jogging a bit when I turned the corner to the transition area to milk some applause out of the spectators. I racked my bike, got my running gear on, and headed out for a nice jog on the trail. When I finished, I simply walked around for a bit and then headed to In-N-Out for my traditional post-race meal of a Double-Double, <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/2009/01/animal-style-fries-at-in-n-out-burger.html">Animal Fries</a> (I only eat them after a race), and a shake. It turns out that <a href="http://www.geminitiming.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/hd_sprint_age_13.htm#50-54%20Male">I finished last in my age group</a> but only by 12 seconds. Not bad when you consider I lost probably over 15 minutes due to my flats. Even with all my drama, I did have fun. I wouldn't mind continuing to do this race in the future. I would also want to figure out how to better keep my swimming up in the future. Swimming once a week or so could probably do it, as long as I keep my engine up on the bike and run. We'll see.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-57990932334763176562013-08-10T12:34:00.000-07:002013-08-10T12:34:49.336-07:00Why I Became A Team Kit Dork<p>You've seen them. Those guys wearing Radio Shack, BMC, Columbia-HTC, etc. team kit but <em>don't</em> look like skinny pros. Amateurs wearing pro team kit. What's up with that? Are they wannabe pros? Do they think they're fooling anybody? On the other hand, is it really any different than people walking around in a Raiders jersey? I have stayed away from wearing team kit because I wasn't sure about the whole thing.
<p>I now have a confession to make: I have become (a bit) of a team kit dork. What's up with that?
<p>I do have a defense, so hear me out. First, I am doing long commutes to/from work so I want to wear something visible. With (sub)urban cycling long distances, I want all the visibility I can get. I do these commutes with a flashing headlight and taillight to help car drivers see me better. The last thing I want to wear on these rides is some oh-so-stylish Rapha kit than blends into the background. Give me some bright colors! Where to find them, though? Looking around, it seems like striking jersey colors aren't all the rage right now. When I was laid up after my crash, I was watching a road race on the computer. I became curious: which team kit stood out the most in the peloton. I had two answers: <a href="http://www.teamlampremerida.com/en/">Lampre</a> and Rabobank. <a href="http://www.probikekit.co.uk/">ProBikeKit</a> had Lampre kit in my size, but not Rabobank, so I ordered me a jersey and bibshorts. It would be several months before I could try it out but when I finally did, it felt fine. I'm assuming that cars can see me well.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<p>Problem, though: that Lampre kit, like most cycling kit, wasn't cheap. In fact, it was a bit of a splurge with my insurance money. A purchase like that wasn't going to be happening on a regular basis. What to do? I needed more than one high-visibility outfit for my commutes. While watching another bike race, my girlfriend commented that she liked the Liquigas (now <a href="http://www.cannondaleprocycling.com/">Cannondale</a>, which she likes, too) kit. Curious, I went searching for the Cannondale kit and that's when I discovered them: sellers in China offering team kit at ridiculous prices. Tempting but what is the quality of this stuff? I decided to place an order for one kit and see what I bought. After a few weeks, my <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1PCS-Free-Shipping-High-Quality-Best-Selling-2011-Liquigas-Cycling-Jersey-Bib-Short-Set-Bicycle-Wear/809993_527231481.html">Liquigas kit</a> arrived and it looked pretty good. I have been on a couple of rides with it and it feels great. So far so good. So good, in fact, that I have ordered three more (<a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Ship-High-Quality-Best-Selling-New-Arrival-2012-Rabobank-Cycling-Jersey-Bib-Short-Set-Bicycle/809993_539172543.html">2012 Rabobank</a>, <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-1PCS-High-Quality-Best-Selling-2011-Milram-Cycling-Jersey-Bib-Short-Set-Bicycle-Wear/809993_526159122.html">2011 Milram</a> (which isn't exactly high-visibility but I've always loved the cow spots), and <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-1PCS-High-Quality-Best-Selling-2011-Mokambo-Cycling-Jersey-Bib-Short-Set-Bicycle-Wear/809993_526301617.html">2011 Acqua & Sapone</a>) from <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/store/809993">the same seller</a>. I'll see how they hold up in the long-term but I am hopeful.
<p>How can I order three more if money is supposedly a concern? Honestly, for what I paid for that Lampre kit last year, I can get four of the other kits from China. And it seems to be good stuff, too! As I understand it, most of the official team kit comes from China, anyway, so why not cut out the middle man? I have to admit, though, that price is the biggest factor. Good quality stuff for that cheap? And it's exactly what I am looking for: high-visibility cycling gear. It was really hard to say "No" to all that.
<p>I haven't become a total team kit dork, though. I won't be wearing it on group rides with the LBS or when I start track cycling. I am reserving it for my commutes and solo rides around the area. That keeps me from being a total dork, right?MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-16346295549431261352013-06-06T13:40:00.000-07:002013-06-06T13:35:21.632-07:00At The Crossroads<p>This started off as one of my standard event reports for the recent <a href="http://californiaclassicweekend.com">California Classic Weekend</a> but things have been swirling around in my head...
<p>The <a href="http://app.strava.com/activities/55603647">century ride</a> was fun. Aid stations every fifteen miles really helped. I had plenty of nutrition on my own but my feet and butt needed a break. While my fit is much improved, I need a new saddle to get me through rides of much more than two hours. I'm eyeing the <a href="http://www.sellesmp.com/smp4bike/en/pro">Selle SMP Pro</a> but we'll see. I also need to fix my numb feet. I thought loosening my shoes would be <em>the</em> answer but, clearly, that is not the case. I do have an idea <a href="http://helenscycles.com/articles/nate-loyal-fitting-pg79.htm">regarding insoles</a>, though, so we'll see if that helps. As far as riding went, I was pleased. I had to save something for the run the next day but I did okay. I was especially pleased with my performance up "the hill": three miles averaging 9%. I didn't fly up but I didn't stop or walk and was able to get out of the saddle when I wanted to. Very nice. My goal for next time is to have the fastest time on Strava for <a href="http://app.strava.com/segments/1304855">that very fun downhill on the ride</a>. It's possible.
<p>The half-marathon the next day was kinda tough. I wasn't in as good running shape as I was two years ago so that wasn't a surprise. What was really tough was my heel getting sore around ten miles in. It wasn't so painful that I had to stop but I could tell that I am not going to be able to do a marathon unless I get this problem fixed. That will likely mean surgery. I'm really not in a position to even consider that right now.
<p>What has my brain swirling was triggered by what happened at the end of the ride. While it wasn't what you'd call a bunch sprint, a bunch of us were trying to cross the finish line first. What happened was that I did...fairly easily. At 50 years of age, I don't think that's supposed to happen. It got me thinking about track cycling again. Do I really want to keep heading down this triathlon path when I don't like the swim training and I have a physical problem that is keeping me from running a full marathon? When there is this other sport, track cycling, which I am much better suited for physically, and where, for the first time in my life, someone commented that I may have a talent for it?
<p><a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2012/03/experiments-on-bike.html">The last time I tried track cycling</a> I had to stop for a couple of reasons. First was a bad IT Band problem that I developed after only two sessions, likely due to bad (rental) bike fit. The second was that I needed to work on basic track-specific skills like pacelines (<em>much</em> tighter than on the road), <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_stand">track stands</a>, etc. before tackling group workouts and races. Then two months later was my accident.
<p>I took another look at the <a href="http://www.homedepotcenter.com/velo">Home Depot Center Velodrome</a> and they seem to have a much more structured way of progressing from beginner, as opposed to the "jump in the deep end" approach at <a href="http://encinovelodrome.org">Encino</a>. I'm thinking that using the money I would have spent on my planned iron-distance triathlon, or even the half, would be better spent at the track. I will likely find out in fairly short order whether I have a knack for it or not.
<p>So now I find myself at a crossroads:
<ul>
<li>Off in the distance is the goal of doing an Ironman. It was never a "bucket list" thing or life-long dream. It was just something I thought would be an adventure. It's now looking like it's not going to happen in the foreseeable future.
<li>Over there in August is the <a href="http://hdtri.com">Hansen Dam Triathlon</a>, which I have already signed up for. No getting out of starting swimming workouts soon, I'm afraid. It's just a sprint so it should be fun. I'm thinking that one of that or the <a href="http://www.triathlon.ucla.edu/ironbruin/">IronBruin</a> or the Merced Gateway will be my only triathlon I do in a season.
<li>The velodrome is what I am really looking forward to now. The speed! The newness! The tighter jeans as my thighs get bigger! Yes, even at 50 I can still put on quite a bit of muscle. I know because I was doing it before my accident.
<li>Finally, road cycling. Even if I went crazy with the track cycling, I would still need to bike on the road and, more importantly, I really want to keep riding on the road. It was the part of triathlon training that I always liked the most. Riding to work, longer rides on the weekend, centuries and whatnot. I really like it.
</ul>
Hey, as long as I'm active, getting fit, and having fun, I'll be happy. It just looks like the focus won't be on triathlon like it has been for the past few years.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-74928202840414166392013-04-29T17:00:00.000-07:002013-04-29T17:00:05.076-07:00Building My Bike: #11 The Verdict and Lessons<p>I have been riding my bike for several weeks so I know enough about it that I can comment on it and the whole building experience. First, building my bike was <em>totally</em> worth it. Besides the obvious cost-savings, I know so much more about bikes now. I am not afraid to tackle almost any bike repair job and, as an added bonus, I now have more tools than I did before.
<p>As far as the bike goes, I really like it. I am a whole gear faster/stronger than my previous bike. Before, if I would ride some section of road in the fifth cog, now I ride it in the (next-smallest) sixth. I'm guessing that it's because my fit is better. With a nine-month layoff before this, it's not because I'm stronger. My hands no longer get so numb on long rides. The bikes corners very well. In what is probably a combination of titanium and the 25mm tires, the ride is less harsh than my previous bike. Sections of rides that I am very familiar with and know to be bumpy are <em>much</em> less so now.
<p>It does have a few minuses, though. First, my feet are located much closer to the front wheel, which comes into play at very slow speeds if I have to make a severe steer (like turning around on a bike path or the wobbles that happen when you <em>slowly</em> approach a red light, waiting for it to turn green). The tire can bump into my feet if I turn far enough. This is a bit unsettling but since I don't have to steer like that too often, I am managing. The frame has some flex up top. I don't feel any flex if I get out of the saddle to climb but I do notice it on bumpy roads and working hard in the saddle up a climb. Finally, my center of gravity has moved backwards such that I have to make a few adjustments. First, on descents I no longer have to slide my butt back in the saddle; rather, I just lean forward (which really isn't a minus). Second, if I am doing a steep climb I can actually pull on the hoods so hard that the front wheel will come off the ground. If that happens I lean forward or get out of the saddle, which also puts me more forward.
<p>These minuses demonstrate to me the value of a custom frame builder. If I had the $$, I could have taken my fit data to a builder and, while the dimensions of the bike would mostly be the same, a builder (I hope) would have noticed that my feet were too close to the front wheel and made an adjustment there. And would have noticed that the head tube should be tapered and the top tube should be bigger to cut down on flex (for example--I don't know if those are true) . Alas, I don't have a lot of $$ right now so I can deal with these little minuses. Make no mistake, I am very happy with my bike.
<p>Here are some lessons I learned during this odyssey:
<ul>
<li>Find the best bike fitter in your area (which is, likely, not some guy in your <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_bike_shop">LBS</a>) and spend the money to <a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2012/08/if-bike-fits-ride-it.html">get a real fit</a>, preferably before you buy your next bike. It is <em>so</em> worth it.
<li>Get the right tools for the job. If you are going to build your bike and don't have the tools to do it, prepare to spend money on new tools. Get good ones from a reputable company and don't try to jury-rig something...unless you are a natural handyman (I am not).
<li>That said, know which LBS you can turn to for advice, parts, and repairs. Even though I did this "myself", I went to <a href="http://www.bicyclejohns.com/santaclarita.html">Bicycle John's Santa Clarita</a> several times for endcaps, a cable cutter, installation of headset, installation of the bottom bracket, a shifter cable, and even some washers. They were great.
<li>Cameras are wonderful. Use them when taking things apart (<a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-my-bike-5-bottom-bracket.html">like cassettes</a>) so you can use the pictures for reference when putting those things back together.
<li>If you don't already have one, for goodness sake get a <a href="http://www.parktool.com/category/portable-repair-stands">repair stand</a>.
<li>If you can afford pro-level gear, get it. It may be twice as expensive as something lesser but if that amount is within your budget, get it.
<li>Bike assembly and repair really isn't that hard. Once you have the tools, the main thing you need is experience and you only get that by doing so dive right in.
</ul>
<p>A great experience. Time to go for a ride!MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-49593290056589093382013-04-17T19:38:00.000-07:002013-04-17T19:39:11.267-07:004221 Snacks<p>Long bike rides, such as the bike leg of an Ironman, require taking in calories to complete. I like e-Gels by <a href="http://www.cranksports.com">Crank Sports</a>; they have electrolytes, too. I often have a <a href="http://www.snickers.com/">Snickers</a> bar early in a long ride (before it melts). I get some calories from my <a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2012/09/michaelade.html">Michaelade</a>. That's still not enough, though. For training rides, I have been known to pack a burrito or a small beef sandwich (or two) but I have been looking for something else. Something snacky I can take on training rides <em>and</em> races. I hate Power Bars. <em>Hate</em> them. I don't really care for many other bars (or <a href="http://www.honeystinger.com">waffles</a>), though <a href="http://www.bonkbreaker.com">Bonk Breakers</a> aren't bad. Problem with stuff like that, though, is they're kinda pricey. Could I come up with my own snack?
<p>I came across a recipe by <a href="https://twitter.com/Leahvdv1">Leah Vande Velde</a>, pro rider <a href="http://christianvdv.com/">Christian Vande Velde</a>'s wife, for <a href="http://www.adventure-journal.com/2012/02/dirtbag-gourmet-christian-vande-veldes-energy-bars/">her homemade energy bars</a>, so I made them. Not quite right for me so I tweaked and experimented and came up with a recipe that is what I'm looking for and tastes yummy, too. I call them 4221 Snacks. "4221" because that makes it easy to keep the recipe in my head. "Snacks" because I don't make bars out of them. I make balls out of them:
<h2>4221 Snacks</h2>
<ul>
<li>4 Cups Cereal (<a href="http://www.ricekrispies.com/">Rice Krispies</a>, <a href="http://www.kelloggs.com/en_US/kelloggs-cocoa-krispies-cereal.html">Cocoa Krispies</a>, etc.)
<li>2 Cups of Nuts & Chews (Try 1C Almonds and 1C Golden Raisins)
<li>2 Cups of Sugary Stuff (I use 1C Brown Sugar and 1C Corn Syrup)
<li>1 Cup of Thick Stuff (I use 1/2C Peanut Butter and 1/2C Tahini)
</ul>
<ol>
<li>Put cereal and Nuts & Chews in a mixing bowl and mix together.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M01jiiH_A40/UW75zZD0W8I/AAAAAAAAAho/xl6KSc6z-5M/s1600/2013-04-12+21.34.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M01jiiH_A40/UW75zZD0W8I/AAAAAAAAAho/xl6KSc6z-5M/s320/2013-04-12+21.34.02.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Generic Cocoa Krispies, chopped roasted almonds, raisins,<br />and chopped dried figs before getting stirred together.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>Heat Sugary Stuff in a saucepan on low. Stir until it melts.
<li>Add Thick Stuff to saucepan. Stir until melted and mixed.
<li>Apply non-stick spray to a baking sheet.
<li>Add wet ingredients to the dry ingredients in the mixing bowl. Mix until the dry ingredients are well coated. Don't be lazy here. If the wet mixture cools off it will be hard to work with.
<li>Use a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disher">disher</a> to scoop the mixture and place scoops on the baking sheet.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2x5WoYIIAeY/UW750xlQqBI/AAAAAAAAAhw/Dyjtu88RnWc/s1600/2013-04-13+09.09.05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2x5WoYIIAeY/UW750xlQqBI/AAAAAAAAAhw/Dyjtu88RnWc/s320/2013-04-13+09.09.05.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scoops on the baking sheet ready to be frozen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>Put baking sheet in freezer.
<li>After a few hours (or, even better, overnight) remove the snack balls from the baking sheet and place them in a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zipper_storage_bag">zipper storage bag</a>. Store in the freezer.
</ol>
<p>That's it. When I am ready to use the snacks on a ride I take them out of the freezer, wrap them individually in plastic wrap, and put them in my jersey pocket or <a href="http://www.tniusa.com/products/bento-box.html">Bento Box</a>. They hold up well in the heat, aren't too sticky (hold them with the plastic wrap while eating), the Thick Stuff gives them a savory feel that is a welcome change from gels and other sweet snacks, and they don't upset my stomach.
<p><b>Warning</b>: this snack is only meant to be eaten while cycling or other multi-hour endurance activity. It is fairly calorie-dense so if you eat it while you're sitting around the office, you may feel the need to run around the block several times and/or play a game of basketball to burn off the energy you just ate.
<p>Here are some notes on the ingredients:
<ul>
<li>I have only used the aforementioned Rice Krispies and Cocoa Krispies (their generic equivalents, truth be told). I suspect <a href="http://www.cheerios.com">Cheerios</a> may work, though I do wonder about how its fiber might affect me. Maybe <a href="http://www.kelloggs.com/en_US/KelloggrsquosCornFlakes.html">Corn Flakes</a>. <a href="http://www.growupstrong.com/kid-cereals/cocoa-puffs">Cocoa Puffs</a> sound really interesting.
<li>I wouldn't mess around too much with the Sugary Stuff. I find this combination holds things together well.
<li>Nuts & Chews is where you can really experiment. Dried fruit, chocolate chips, different kinds of nuts. Just make sure things are no bigger than raisin-sized because it helps them stay attached. For example, if you want to use almonds, chop them up a little.
<li>If you use peanut butter in your Thick Stuff, don't use the natural kind that separates (like my favorite, <a href="http://www.laurascudderspeanutbutter.com/product">Laura Scudder's</a>). Use something like <a href="http://www.jif.com">Jif</a> so it will hold together in the heat.
</ul>
<p>I first started working on this in 2012 and found that, in combination with Michaelade, I was recovering much better from long, hard rides. I'm not saying that these things are some kind of nutritional silver bullet. More like I was finally ingesting enough calories on my rides.
<p>I use a <a href="http://www.webstaurantstore.com/12-round-squeeze-handle-disher-portion-scoop/92247152.html">#12 disher</a> for my snacks, which results in 20 scoops (be conservative and level those scoops because you don't want these snacks to be <em>huge</em>--I've tried that and it's too much). Here is the nutritional breakdown per scoop for the above recipe using Rice Krispies, almonds, and golden raisins. <a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ymmv">YMMV</a> because of different ingredients, scoop sizes, etc.:
<ul>
<li>35.1g Carbhohydrates
<li>4.2g Protein
<li>9.2g Fat
<li>226 Calories
</ul>
<p>Like I said, "calorie-dense". Enjoy and I hope this inspires you to make your own snacks. If you <em>are</em> interested in making your own cycling snacks, you might want to check out <a href="http://www.skratchlabs.com/pages/about-us">Allen Lim</a>'s new book, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Feed-Zone-Portables-Cookbook--Go/dp/1937715000/">Feed Zone Portables</a>. I haven't read it yet but it does sound promising.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-22665235749963717092013-04-16T12:52:00.000-07:002013-04-16T12:53:04.034-07:00Building My Bike: #10 Bar Tape<p>Everything was put together. The fitting had been completed. I put the insert in the steerer tube and the stem was firmly attached to it. There was just one thing left to make the bike complete and I couldn't put it off anymore: it was time to wrap the handlebar with tape.
<p>The reason for my hesitation stemmed from my attempts to wrap bar tape on my ten-speed back in high school (known as "the seventies" to you youngsters). It always ended in disaster. However, the bar tape you get to work with now is <em>so much</em> better than that plastic stuff from way back when. For the tape, I stuck with with what I know and has been working for me: <a href="http://store.cinelli-usa.com/c/components_bar-tape">Cinelli Cork</a>. It feels good, it looks good, and it comes in a variety of colors and patterns. Another nice thing about this tape is that there is a small strip of adhesive on the back to hold it down while you're wrapping.
<p>To build up my confidence, I watched this video a few times:
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/spZ9F5VQonw" width="560"></iframe>
<p>Time to get started:
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zn0zT2igwKs/UWhrrxFQeFI/AAAAAAAAAg4/1YaG1Y6ruWo/s1600/2013-02-23+13.26.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zn0zT2igwKs/UWhrrxFQeFI/AAAAAAAAAg4/1YaG1Y6ruWo/s200/2013-02-23+13.26.42.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrap those cables first.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
1. Wrap the cables to the bar with electrical tape.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e-SssgWOhP0/UWhrr3d8EbI/AAAAAAAAAg8/LYkGurjKI7Q/s1600/2013-02-23+13.22.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e-SssgWOhP0/UWhrr3d8EbI/AAAAAAAAAg8/LYkGurjKI7Q/s200/2013-02-23+13.22.28.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Those "spare" bar tape strips<br />
go behind the shifters.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
2. Use the extra tape section to wrap behind the brake handle.
<p>3. Beginning at the bar end, wrap, wrap, wrap. Wrap, wrap, wrap. Woops, running out of tape. I guess my original plan of overlapping by half the tape width was way too conservative. Unwrap, unwrap, unwrap. This time I'm going to wrap so that the adhesive strip on the back lands just outside the tape underneath.
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F-W3KWiQbVU/UWhrsGC2OlI/AAAAAAAAAhI/4kkipbnxznw/s1600/2013-02-23+13.24.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F-W3KWiQbVU/UWhrsGC2OlI/AAAAAAAAAhI/4kkipbnxznw/s200/2013-02-23+13.24.59.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr.><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wrapped with the adhesive<br />
just outside the tape below.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p><b>Re-</b>rap, wrap, wrap, double over the brake handle, wrap, wrap, wrap. Done!
<p>4. Instead of using electrical tape, Cinelli provides tape strips (with their logo, natch) to tape the end. Some people used to recommend using an X-Acto knife to cut the end of the tape so it is perpendicular with the bar but using scissors is much easier and you don't cut into your bar.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yl9wGxFupT8/UWhruZGIJ6I/AAAAAAAAAhQ/633KuGO3RTs/s1600/2013-02-23+13.34.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yl9wGxFupT8/UWhruZGIJ6I/AAAAAAAAAhQ/633KuGO3RTs/s200/2013-02-23+13.34.42.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An improvised mallet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
5. Time to put the bar-end plugs in. Hmm, that isn't going in easily. In fact, it was pretty hard. I ended up using a hammer but, because I didn't have a soft mallet, I had to improvise by putting some extra bar tape on the hammer head and whacked those plugs in.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kX6kJsssGME/UWhru85g33I/AAAAAAAAAhY/Nq6Wjb3odcc/s1600/2013-02-23+13.38.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kX6kJsssGME/UWhru85g33I/AAAAAAAAAhY/Nq6Wjb3odcc/s200/2013-02-23+13.38.55.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad job.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There! Not a bad job. Not a great job but not a bad job. Fear of wrapping the handlebars begone!MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-31850296041124732682013-04-09T13:00:00.000-07:002013-04-09T13:03:06.221-07:00Building My Bike: #9 Stem, Saddle, and Fit<p>In the home stretch now. The stem and saddle are very easy to put on but they are the heart of a proper fit (after the frame's geometry, of course) so I wanted to <em>try</em> and get them close to the measurements from my fit.
<p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWNjQQcFtM0/UWMdFeBxu3I/AAAAAAAAAgY/kBO_R_mOZ6g/s1600/2013-02-23+12.36.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWNjQQcFtM0/UWMdFeBxu3I/AAAAAAAAAgY/kBO_R_mOZ6g/s320/2013-02-23+12.36.40.jpg" width="240" /></a>First would be the stem. I did rough measuring and found that I would need to <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#stackheight">stack</a> the <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#steerer">steerer</a> as high as I could to attach the stem, and even then I wasn't sure that would be high enough. If that was the case, there exist <a href="http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=451141">stems with steep angles</a> that can raise the handlebar even higher but I was hoping we wouldn't have to go that far.
<p>How high did I stack things, and how did I do it? Well, a couple of years ago a quick special came up on the old Bonktown site for some carbon spacers--cheap! I ordered them and put them on my old bike, saving the old ones that came with it (in bike repair, it pays to save as many of these spare parts as possible). I also didn't use all the spacers so I had some more spares there. I ended up using almost all the carbon spacers <em>and</em> the old bike's spacers to get the stack high enough, which turned out to be about 2 1/4". Yes, 2.25 inches. Someday I'll get some nice <a href="http://chrisking.com/parts/spacers">Chris King matching spacers</a> but, for now, this alternating pattern will do.
<p>Putting the saddle on was a piece of cake, of course. I did need to use anti-seize on the seatpost because it being metal meeting titanium. I set it to the neighborhood of the right height, based on the fit measurements. Then I tried adjusting saddle angle and forward-backwards position. After a few very short test rides around the driveway I decided that saddle fine-tuning would be better done by a professional.
<p>Note that the steerer tube was still un-cut at this point. I didn't think it would need to be cut at all but I wanted to be absolutely sure and that would not happen until I finished my fit. For my <a href="http://www.3tcycling.com/forks/funda">3T Funda Pro fork</a>, this presented a problem. It has an insert that you epoxy inside the top of the steerer tube after you have cut it. The insert is where the top cap screws into the fork. Without that insert, the fork is loose. If you ride a bike much with a loose fork/headset, apparently you can really mess the headset up. Another reason to stop doing test rides and get the verdict on cutting the steerer tube.
<p>So the bike was pretty much assembled, except for bar tape, which I couldn't put on until I found out about the steerer tube. Here is what it looked like at that point:
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACEfDSCK7f0/UWRt4SMOSgI/AAAAAAAAAgo/K3diVli8bL0/s1600/2013-02-17+18.21.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ACEfDSCK7f0/UWRt4SMOSgI/AAAAAAAAAgo/K3diVli8bL0/s400/2013-02-17+18.21.36.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<p>Time to go back to FinalFit. A lot had happened since my last trip there back in June 2012! They had moved and changed their name to <a href="http://ero-sports.com/">ERO Sports</a> but it is still run by Jim Manton. Once he saw the name on the bike he remembered my whole story and was eager to see how the bike turned out, since he might be able to recommend Carver to people looking for a custom frame. Jim took out his measuring tape to see how the bike compared to the fit numbers we arrived at in June and I was <em>very</em> happy (and relieved) when he said it was perfect (even my high stacking of the stem!). He even commented that the frame looked very well-put together. All we should need to do was tweak the saddle position (up/down/forward/backwards/angle) and that turned out to be the case. I'd ride (the bike on a trainer). He'd tweak. I'd ride. He'd tweak. We were very close but not quite there and then he made a very slight adjustment and everybody (I brought my girlfriend) could tell that that was the missing piece. I rode faster and looked more comfortable. I'm not even sure what he adjusted but the fit was now excellent!
<p>I brought the bike home, marked the seatpost position with tape in case it slipped later (it did), took pictures of the saddle set-up, removed the fork and epoxy'd the insert to the steerer tube, put the fork back on the bike, and got ready for the last big challenge: bar tape.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-18870207968456102972013-04-05T13:25:00.000-07:002013-04-05T13:26:06.089-07:00Building My Bike: #8 Cables<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LGxNL-Ps9zk/US50F6Rv8fI/AAAAAAAAAfU/oPyIMDo-9r0/s1600/2013-02-17+16.48.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LGxNL-Ps9zk/US50F6Rv8fI/AAAAAAAAAfU/oPyIMDo-9r0/s200/2013-02-17+16.48.33.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stretching new cable.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What makes me the most nervous about any kind of project is doing something permanent. For example: cutting. For this project, that includes cutting a chain, cutting bar tape, and cutting cable. I try to cut long when I can because my fear is cutting short and ruining something, which means I have to spend more $$. Nervous.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0b084s3fZF4/US50GTlyi4I/AAAAAAAAAfc/T4ReddJhUMY/s1600/2013-02-25+15.04.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0b084s3fZF4/US50GTlyi4I/AAAAAAAAAfc/T4ReddJhUMY/s200/2013-02-25+15.04.17.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stock ferrule didn't fit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlrF6uAIB-c/US50G4WUjKI/AAAAAAAAAfg/cxNGP-L6Lhk/s1600/2013-02-17+15.57.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlrF6uAIB-c/US50G4WUjKI/AAAAAAAAAfg/cxNGP-L6Lhk/s200/2013-02-17+15.57.52.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't go without ferrules.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I started with the brake cables because I thought they would be the easiest and they were. Route them through the brake handles, run them through the housing and then through cable guides, hook them up to the brakes. Done. Something helpful to do, though, is stretching the cable. Once the cable is hooked up, grab a section and pull on it a few times. Then go back and tighten it up again. Cables stretch, especially when they're new, so pre-stretching as much as you can does help.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q3ImXzMBIsA/US50IAIkV8I/AAAAAAAAAf0/pYhlrAljA8M/s1600/2013-02-27+12.59.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q3ImXzMBIsA/US50IAIkV8I/AAAAAAAAAf0/pYhlrAljA8M/s200/2013-02-27+12.59.10.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A step-down ferrule.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another helpful tip is don't use the wire-cutters you may already have. You are not going to be just cutting cable but also the housing, which is plastic on the outside and <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#housing">metal underneath</a>. Traditional wire-cutters can cut the cable but squish the housing. Get yourself a cable and housing cutter. <a href="http://jagwire.com/products/v/Cable_Cutters">Mine is made by Jagwire</a> and it also does endcap crimping.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RQhjCwCeNHM/US50Gz_PkDI/AAAAAAAAAfk/8bQCwuX1HUU/s1600/2013-02-25+15.14.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RQhjCwCeNHM/US50Gz_PkDI/AAAAAAAAAfk/8bQCwuX1HUU/s200/2013-02-25+15.14.45.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect fit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I had a bit of an adventure with the cable housing <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#ferrule">ferrules</a>, those metal things you put at the end of a section of housing. The ferrules that came with the cable housing did not fit the cable guides on my frame. They kinda went in but didn't fit well. So, I thought I would try to get away with not using ferrules. Bad idea. Stupid idea. So I put the ferrules back on but wasn't happy. I did some internet searching and found some <a href="http://www.jensonusa.com/Wheels-MFG-Step-Down-Ferrules">step-down ferrules</a>. I went to a LBS to see if they had some, they did, I put them on, and they were perfect.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6yEi-Dou2fo/US50E-a01GI/AAAAAAAAAfE/OKB7nfcuDUc/s1600/2013-02-17+13.59.44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6yEi-Dou2fo/US50E-a01GI/AAAAAAAAAfE/OKB7nfcuDUc/s200/2013-02-17+13.59.44.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That bit of daylight is<br />
where the cable goes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The shifter cables were a bit more of an adventure. I started off by having a hard time figuring out where to start running it through the shifter (I should mention that these are <a href="http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/ultegra_6700.html">Shimano Ultegra</a> shifters). I should have taken a picture of where I pulled the old cable out. I figured out the right opening and ran the cable through it. However, it wasn't smooth going. I kept pulling on the cable, though. I knew I was in trouble when the cable stop kept going. It actually got a bit stuck in the shifter. After taking a few things off the shifter (those things are pretty complicated and don't disassemble so well--which is why they're so expensive), and some luck, I was able to pull the cable back out. This time I turned the bike in the stand so I could take a good look at the bottom of the shifter. See that hole in the bottom left? In there is some daylight. That is where the cable needed to run through. Once I figured that out, the cable went in smoothly.
<p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eSVcizMJR1M/UV3ebqwtcVI/AAAAAAAAAgI/qou1F-Klcfw/s1600/2013-03-09+11.48.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eSVcizMJR1M/UV3ebqwtcVI/AAAAAAAAAgI/qou1F-Klcfw/s200/2013-03-09+11.48.23.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a cable stretcher can do<br />
if you're not careful</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cable to the rear derailleur was easy: run it, hook it up, stretch it a bit. Piece of cake. The front derailleur, though...
<p>Let me admit that the front derailleur has always been my nemesis, even when installed by a bike shop. It would stretch and I'd have to pull it but I would screw up and shifting up front would suck for a while. Same thing happened here. I installed the cable but I couldn't get it tight enough, shifting would be okay for a while but it wouldn't take long for the cable to stretch (I could never seem to stretch it enough), so I'd pull the cable some more, I couldn't get it tight enough, shifting would be okay for a while...you get the picture. Clearly I was missing something and that something was a "cable stretcher" or a "fourth-hand tool". It's a clever little tool (mine is from <a href="http://www.parktool.com/product/cable-stretcher-bt-2">Park Tools</a>) that grabs the cable, lets you pull it tight, then lock that pull in place while you tighten the bolt. If you're not careful, though, you can mess up your cable while using it so let me give a few tips:
<ol>
<li>Do not cut your cable until after you have used the stretching tool to install it. Even then, you'll probably want to cut it long the first time because it is going to stretch and you are likely going to have to pull it again. You do this because the cable won't fray as much if it is whole. If you try using it on a bare cable end, see the picture above.</li>
<li>If you do cut it again, make sure you leave enough length to use the cable stretcher <i>well-within the end cap</i>. You don't want to knock the endcap off while you are using the cable stretcher. See the photo above.</li>
<li>For the front derailleur, set the inside adjustment screw about midway. Once you install the cable, you are going to be screwing it in so make sure you have some room to do that.</li>
<li>Set the chain in the largest cog in your cassette and the small chainring. This is as far in as your front derailleur will be going.</li>
<li>Using the cable stretcher, pull the cable so your front derailleur is as close to the chain as possible. Though we will be using the screw to fine-tune the adjustment, you don't want to make a big adjustment with it.</li>
<li>Lock the cable stretcher and screw the cable down.</li>
<li>Stretch the cable with your fingers as much as you can. More than once.</li>
<li>Repeat steps 5 and 6.</li>
<li>Lastly, don't squeeze the tool with a death grip. It is not needed because with this tool you don't need that much effort to stretch the cable. If you squeeze too hard you can fray your cable even if you haven't cut it yet.</li>
</ol>
<p>Since I used the cable stretcher my front shifter cable doesn't have slack and it shifts just fine. There is still some slack in the rear brake cable but I am not sure what I can do about that yet. The brake works just fine but when I go over bumps the cable slaps against the frame, which isn't harmful but it is annoying.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-82188114272025801582013-02-26T07:30:00.000-08:002013-02-26T07:30:02.311-08:00Building My Bike: #7 Brakes, Derailleurs, and Chain<p>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sygL5jDkM98/USl87YqOJqI/AAAAAAAAAds/VFo5LYv8eF8/s1600/2013-02-16+14.02.54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sygL5jDkM98/USl87YqOJqI/AAAAAAAAAds/VFo5LYv8eF8/s200/2013-02-16+14.02.54.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front too close.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dVS7lTuaJlg/USl88e7ESLI/AAAAAAAAAd0/FBbvyY57n4M/s1600/2013-02-16+14.00.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dVS7lTuaJlg/USl88e7ESLI/AAAAAAAAAd0/FBbvyY57n4M/s200/2013-02-16+14.00.46.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear too close.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What could be so hard about brakes? Take them off the old bike, put them on the new frame, put new brake pads on. Done, right? The problem was that both brakes didn't fit on the new frame. Huh? I've never heard of brakes not fitting but they didn't fit. The rear brake pads were right up against the seat stays and the front brake pads were right up against the fork. Mild panic because I didn't want to buy new brakes. Did some reading. Didn't find anything. Okay, if this isn't a problem that's documented then it isn't a problem, right? If you look at where the brake contacts where it's going, there's this thick washer. Perhaps I just needed another thick washer.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AqkF3riiKQ/USmAKEg8qII/AAAAAAAAAeE/vJxTfTyyRP8/s1600/2013-02-16+17.29.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AqkF3riiKQ/USmAKEg8qII/AAAAAAAAAeE/vJxTfTyyRP8/s200/2013-02-16+17.29.04.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front with washers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7uA_aYUvshI/USmALp2cb9I/AAAAAAAAAeM/bEc0rxmEbvI/s1600/2013-02-16+17.28.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7uA_aYUvshI/USmALp2cb9I/AAAAAAAAAeM/bEc0rxmEbvI/s200/2013-02-16+17.28.45.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear with washers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Well, I couldn't find any at the hardware store or the LBS ("I must throw out ten of those a week." Sigh.) so I improvised. I decided to use regular washers and stack them until the pads cleared their obstruction. It took three washers for each brake but it worked. Now, I'm not convinced that regular washers are the best thing to use. They are smooth and the thick washer that was with the brakes is serrated, likely to keep it from turning when force is applied to the brakes. I looked and I looked and I finally found that <a href="http://www.jensonusa.com/Tektro-Serrated-Brake-Washer">JensonUSA stocks serrated washers</a> so when I next place an order from them, I will include some of these.<br />
<p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YgDXcZW9ko0/USvR79YQ_qI/AAAAAAAAAec/6E2iYvaKWBk/s1600/2013-02-16+17.30.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YgDXcZW9ko0/USvR79YQ_qI/AAAAAAAAAec/6E2iYvaKWBk/s320/2013-02-16+17.30.07.jpg" height="200" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"/></a>Derailleurs proved to be a bit easier. Hanging the front derailleur was pretty straightforward: put it a few millimeters above the big chainring. The rear derailleur was a bit more interesting. Putting it on was no problem but I noticed this adjusting screw that I hadn't seen before (because you don't really see it until you're looking at the derailleur from the inside). It is the <a href="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#btension">B-adjustment screw</a> and it is used to, in a nutshell, keep the cage from rubbing up against the cassette (learn all about rear derailleur adjustments from <a href="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html">Sheldon Brown</a>). That would have to wait until I put the chain on.
<p>As for the chain, I could have gone with the usual Shimano Ultegra chain but I decided to give the <a href="http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kmc-x1093-10-speed-chain">KMC X10.93</a> chain a try. It was almost half the cost of the Shimano and it got great reviews. Sold. The instructions in the <a href="http://www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php">FLO Cycling guide</a> I have been using say to wrap your chain around the big chainring and the biggest cog, add two links (one if you have a master link, which the KMC has) and that is the length of your chain. I was a bit skeptical but I checked other sources and they had the same advice. Worked great. I was surprised when all that fit in the rear derailleur but it did.
<p><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h48U3TFhOvU/USvWnodav2I/AAAAAAAAAes/v_11tr2uFuU/s1600/2013-02-17+11.53.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h48U3TFhOvU/USvWnodav2I/AAAAAAAAAes/v_11tr2uFuU/s320/2013-02-17+11.53.07.jpg" height="200" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"/></a>Now that the chain was installed, I could go back and work on that B-adjustment screw. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zIZBovb6CE">The FLO Cycling video</a> that accompanies the guide for this shows the top-most pulley always quite a distance from the cassette. Hmm. My top-most pulley only gets that way when it is pulled down a bit by the chain. Hmm. Well, I'm not convinced I have totally set this correctly but it is working for now. I'll probably have to revisit this.
<p>That was the easy part of setting up the derailleurs. The real adjustments happen after I attach the cables.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-36444228181200862622013-02-23T07:30:00.000-08:002013-02-23T07:30:01.250-08:00Building My Bike: #6 Wheels and Tires<p>The crash wrecked my wheels. There weren't taco-d but they were so messed up that I needed to get new ones. I liked the <a href="http://www.vueltausa.com/">Vuelta</a> wheels that came on my old bike. A little aero, bladed spokes, and demonstrably bomb-proof. I wanted to see what else was out there, though.
<p>The first set that caught my eye was the <a href="http://www.mavic.com/en/product/wheels/road-triathlon/wheels/Cosmic-Elite">Mavic Cosmic Elite</a>. Very similar to the Vueltas feature-wise. They were right on the upper edge of what I wanted to spend but they were tough to find on sale and in stock. I did find a good source for them, though: eBay. Seems that they are the standard wheels on some bikes but people want to upgarde to better wheels so they put their Cosmic Elites on sale. I got close in a few auctions but then I started wondering whether I really wanted to spend $400 on wheels. I decided to find another set.
<p>Next up was the <a href="http://www.reynoldscycling.com/index.php?p_resource=items_wheels_item&p_itm_pk=677">Reynolds Shadow</a>. Spokes aren't bladed but the price was right. However, they were really hard to find in-stock in online stores (some stores say they've been discontinued). I also had a question about how bomb-proof they were, since there wasn't much in the way of reviews to check out. See, light, fast, and expensive wheels are made for whippet riders. Us bigger folks need heavier wheels that won't crumple when we bunny-hop over potholes.
<p>In the end, I decided to go with what I knew: Vueltas. The <a href="http://www.vueltausa.com/vuelta-bicycle-wheels/vuelta-road-wheels/corsa-pro.html">Vuelta Corsa Pro</a>, to be specific. I already knew that Vueltas could handle my load. They are 30mm deep and have bladed spokes. Clinchers, of course. And the price at <a href="http://www.jensonusa.com/">JensonUSA</a> was right. Sold.
<p>Tires wasn't much of a decision but I did decide to go with something slightly new. My go-to tires are <a href="http://www.vittoria.com/en/product/rubino/#product-96">Vittoria Rubino Pros</a>. I have tried tires by Continental, Specialized, Vredstein, and Michelin but I keep coming back to Vittoria. They wear well, hold up against punctures better than the others, feel good (really, some tires just don't feel good from the first few pedal strokes) and I can run them at high pressure (120psi rear, 110 front). However, instead of the typical 23mm tires, I wanted to try 25mm tires. More grip on the road and a supposedly smoother ride. We'll see.
<p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ec9l0PKKQvY/UShfypPkHeI/AAAAAAAAAdU/0Ak0s09KInc/s1600/2013-02-16+17.34.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ec9l0PKKQvY/UShfypPkHeI/AAAAAAAAAdU/0Ak0s09KInc/s200/2013-02-16+17.34.41.jpg"/></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n7yfpgWXcEo/UShgahWuPBI/AAAAAAAAAdc/9mr1Ycwx5fM/s1600/2013-02-16+17.38.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-top: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n7yfpgWXcEo/UShgahWuPBI/AAAAAAAAAdc/9mr1Ycwx5fM/s320/2013-02-16+17.38.57.jpg" /></a>I should mention rim tape. Because I use such high pressure in my tires, I can't use regular rim tape. Did you know that? Neither did I until I did some rides with the higher pressure and I got a flat going downhill on the inside of the tube. I did some reading and found that because of the high pressure, regular rim tape can fail, allowing the tube to expand in the spoke holes and flat. I now buy <a href="http://www.probikekit.com/us/vittoria-high-pressure-rim-tape.html">Vittoria High Pressure Rim Tape</a> (up to 145psi) and put that on my rims.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-21709873393257684662013-02-21T07:30:00.000-08:002013-03-02T10:05:24.401-08:00Building My Bike: #5 Bottom Bracket, Crankset and Cassette<p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBRMZYWE8LY/USUsp6cTpII/AAAAAAAAAcE/HoijqvmdTOo/s1600/2013-02-03+16.44.14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rBRMZYWE8LY/USUsp6cTpII/AAAAAAAAAcE/HoijqvmdTOo/s320/2013-02-03+16.44.14.jpg" width="240" /></a>I had hoped to move the drivetrain from my old bicycle to the new frame and I did, for the most part. Taking the <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#crankset">crankset</a> off was straightforward. I had never taken a <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#cassette">cassette</a> off a wheel, so that was new but <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#remove">wasn't too hard</a>. A helpful tip: cassettes come off one cog-at-a-time (for the most part) and there are spacers between <em>some</em> of them so take pictures of the pieces that come off in the order that you took them off. It will <em>really</em> help you putting things back together.
<p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PDJMmDKVXFk/USUwuVr74LI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Q3Z2XSzuNz8/s1600/2013-02-16+13.52.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PDJMmDKVXFk/USUwuVr74LI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Q3Z2XSzuNz8/s320/2013-02-16+13.52.07.jpg" /></a>When it came time to remove the bottom bracket, I found I had two problems. First, I had the wrong tool because I thought I had a <a href="http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque">BB with external cups</a>. Yeah, that's a stupid thing to not notice but, in my defense, my old bike originally came with one but <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#cartridge">that changed</a> when I switched to a compact crankset, so I'm not completely hallucinatory. The second problem was that when I turned the bottom bracket, it felt a bit rough so I figured it needed replacing. I decided to let get a new bottom bracket and at the LBS and let them install it. I'm not convinced that was the most cost-effective decision but I didn't want to buy yet another tool and was anxious to get this done. Oh well, they put it on and it is smooth as silk.
<p>Putting the crankset on the new bike was, of course, a piece of cake.
<p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WK4KgLM-GBM/USUwPIY9DTI/AAAAAAAAAcU/qjTn9EyeaI0/s1600/2013-02-17+11.52.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WK4KgLM-GBM/USUwPIY9DTI/AAAAAAAAAcU/qjTn9EyeaI0/s320/2013-02-17+11.52.36.jpg" /></a>Before I put the cassette on the new wheel, I wanted to clean it. All I did was mix up some water with <a href="http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/citrus-cleaner.htm">degreaser</a> and soak the cogs in there while I did other work on the bike. After an hour or two I took them out, wiped them off with a shop towel, and put them on the rear hub. While they don't exactly look new, it is a <em>huge</em> improvement over how they looked before.
<p>Oh, and while I was down there, I added the bottom bracket cable guide. That's something you don't usually think about, do you? Not only does your LBS probably not stock them, they are kind of a neglected part out there on the internet. Your best bet is to find them on eBay. The problem is that there are different sizes of cable guides because of the different sizes of bottom brackets and you don't always get a description of the BB size for your cable guide. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JeRtXkM460A/USU120v_YjI/AAAAAAAAAcs/qNpPrEYCA-w/s1600/2013-02-16+13.51.53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JeRtXkM460A/USU120v_YjI/AAAAAAAAAcs/qNpPrEYCA-w/s320/2013-02-16+13.51.53.jpg" /></a>The guide from my old bike didn't fit so, originally, I bought a Campagnolo cable guide on eBay because I thought it would be funny ("Find the Campy part I used."). It turns out that it was made for a bigger BB so I couldn't use it, either (though I did try and ended up stripping the cheap screw in the process--I had to break the cable guide and used pliers to remove the screw). Stopped at the LBS, they had a couple different types laying around so I got both. The ugly one fit best. Oh well, nobody will see it but me.
<p><b>Update 3/2/13:</b> <a href="http://www.competitivecyclist.com">Competitive Cyclist</a> just posted a <a href="http://www.competitivecyclist.com/frame/2013-merlin-extralight-36927.html?CMP_ID=sm_cctw1">gallery of their new Merlin Extralight titanium bike</a>. Look at the <a href="http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/products/merlin/2013/mln0010frame-zoom12.jpg">bottom bracket cable guide</a>! Looks like I'm in good company.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-4866168098530873602013-02-19T22:04:00.001-08:002013-02-22T17:29:20.543-08:00Building My Bike: #4 Headset and Fork<p><a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html">The headset</a>. It doesn't do so much. It connects the fork's steerer tube to the head tube, allowing you to steer the bike. And that's it. So how do you decide what headset to get? I don't have much experience with them but the overwhelming consensus on the internet is that <a href="http://chrisking.com/">Chris King</a> makes the best headsets. They work well and they last. Sounds good. Headsets don't cost all that much, relatively speaking, and, while a <a href="http://chrisking.com/headsets/hds_nts">Chris King Nothreadset</a> costs over $100, which is twice what a lower-end headset costs, it's still not the most expensive one out there. A pro-level component for not much over $100? Sold.
<p>I thought getting a fork was going to be much simpler than what it turned out to be. That's because I didn't know as much about forks as I do now. Specifically: fork geometry. See, I thought I could just buy any old carbon fork and it would be good. So I went to <a href="http://bikeisland.com/">Bike Island</a>, which stocks components found on BikesDirect.com bikes, and looked at forks. Something I noticed was this thing called "rake". It differed between different forks. Hmmm. <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rp7f9g3IlP8/USQSd7qIkxI/AAAAAAAAAb0/_lfjAddtF3Q/s1600/2013-02-16+14.54.00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rp7f9g3IlP8/USQSd7qIkxI/AAAAAAAAAb0/_lfjAddtF3Q/s320/2013-02-16+14.54.00.jpg" /></a>So I did <a href="http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/">some reading</a> on the internet about forks, which lead to another term: "trail". Good thing I did. Because of my frame's head tube angle, the rake found on most forks would not give me the right amount of trail. That article said a trail of 57mm is ideal but that is what my last bike had and I could not ride hands-free for very long so I wanted a bit more trail. I used this <a href="http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php">handy trail calculator</a> and found that I needed a fork with a rake of between 48 and 50mm to get the trail I wanted (time will tell if it makes much difference). Finding a fork with a trail like that was not much of a problem. For instance, both <a href="http://www.3tcycling.com/">3T</a> and <a href="http://www.enve.com/">ENVE</a> make forks like that. Finding a fork with a trail like that that wasn't over $400 proved to be more of a test. I finally found <a href="http://www.cycleclubsports.com/">an online store</a> that had a <a href="http://www.3tcycling.com/forks/funda">3T Funda Pro</a> fork with a 49mm rake (which made my trail 60mm) at a good price. Sold.
<p>Fork (with <a href="http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Working_with_crown_races_313.html">crown race</a>), headset, and frame. All I needed to do was put them together. It turns out that assembling all that requires specialized tools that is just not worth me purchasing. I dropped everything off at the LBS and the job was done the next day. If you get a headset installed on your frame, check out its orientation. If the headset's logo is aligned (e.g. the logo faces forward), your shop is paying attention to details (mine did). That's a good thing.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-43538637097437813962013-01-27T10:20:00.000-08:002013-01-27T10:21:40.155-08:00Building My Bike: #3 The Frame<p>I talked a little bit about ordering my frame in <a href="http://clydetrains.blogspot.com/2012/08/if-bike-fits-ride-it.html">a previous post</a> but things didn't turn out quite as planned so I'm going to write about the process of getting a custom frame and a little about the frame itself.
<p>Based on my fit, we decided to go with a completely custom frame. I went to a dealer for <a href="http://www.carverbikes.com/">Carver Bikes</a> to order a <a href="http://www.carverbikes.com/frames/custom-ti">custom titanium frame</a>. Went went through the list of options and, since I am working with a limited budget, only chose a couple of them. I put down my deposit and they sent the order in. The frame was to be delivered around October or November. Great!
<p>Some time had gone by and it turns out the order wasn't progressing. Why? Well, when you order a custom frame, the frame builder needs some dimensions...like <em>all of them</em>. How did the bike shop not know this? I went back and forth with the shop a few times but they would tell me one thing, somebody else would tell me another, and then I wouldn't hear from the shop. I took matters into my own hands and called Carver directly, speaking with Davis Carver himself. He was very helpful and told me exactly what I needed: basically, the geometry of a bike that would likely fit and we could use that as a starting point. I asked Jim from <a href="http://www.finalfit.com/">FinalFit</a> what bike that would be and he told me that the <a href="http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/race_performance/domane_6_series/">Trek Domane</a>, with a slightly different seat angle, would be that bike. I sent the geometry of the Domane to Davis, told him about the seat angle, and we were off.
<p>He came back with a very detailed blueprint for a proposed frame. Now I saw why he needed the geometry. Length of tubes and stays, various angles. I have pretty much only ridden my old bike so I don't have experience with how these different measurements affect my ride so it was great that Jim could suggest the Domane. Given that it's made for <a href="http://www.fabiancancellara.ch/e_index.php">Fabian Cancellara</a> to ride in <a href="http://www.letour.fr/us/homepage_horscoursePRX.html">Paris-Roubaix</a>, I am optimistic that it will be a comfy frame.
<p>The blueprint showed that the seat angle was making the wheelbase too short so I changed the seat angle from my ideal of 71 degrees to 72 (Jim said we could still work with that) and lengthened the top tube by 1cm. Carver sent me a revised blueprint and I studied that for a while. I was having problems getting a response from Jim but, in all fairness to him, he was getting ready to move his business (again) and <a href="http://www.ero-sports.com/">launch a new one</a> so I understood. While I was debating whether to change the blueprint, Davis sent me an email...with pictures. The frame from the last blueprint was actually made by the guys in Taiwan! I asked Davis how much it was, since it wasn't quite right (wrong finish, maybe one more tweak to go (maybe)). He knocked a few hundred off. Sold! What to do about the bike shop, though?
<p>During all this time, the bike shop had been not helpful. Not preventing anything but not helping me out. At all. I would get one story from Jim and Davis, and another from the bike shop. Interesting thing: Davis told me that, though the shop is listed as a dealer, they have never ordered a frame from him. However, the shop owner said that the last frame they ordered from Carver was several months ago. Hmm. Davis always treated me really well and the bike shop didn't so I am going to have to go with Davis on this. So, now that we had a frame and a discount price, how do we make that transaction happen? By cutting the bike shop out of the deal. They didn't earn whatever they were going to make, IMO, so I had no problem with that. I called the shop and, after a few back and forths, including a heads up to Davis that they were going to call him, the order was cancelled. Once I got my deposit back, I paid Carver Bikes and my frame was on its way. It arrived and has been sitting in my bike stand ever since, waiting to be assembled.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8t58IfeGE64/UQVrI6YhmhI/AAAAAAAAAbk/xWDO8mtb-pQ/s1600/frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="240" width="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8t58IfeGE64/UQVrI6YhmhI/AAAAAAAAAbk/xWDO8mtb-pQ/s320/frame.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>So what should you do if you're thinking about getting a custom frame and don't have much money? I mean, you could go first class with <a href="http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/bikes-and-gear-features/nothing-it-titanium-dream-bikes">a more traditional frame builder</a> but I don't have nearly that kind of money so that was right out. Based on my experience, here is what I would suggest:
<ul>
<li>Get a bike fit with a fitter who can recommend base frames for you based on that fit.
<li>Discuss with your fitter what changes, if any, you should make to your base frame's geometry.
<li>Learn about <a href="http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/">fork rake and trail</a>.
<li>Use <a href="http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php">a trail calculator</a> to determine what fork rake you will need on your frame to get the trail you want. You may have to adjust your head tube angle as a result.
</ul>
<p>In my case, I learned about fork rake and trail after I had the frame. I will write about that a bit more when we get to the fork and headset. One thing I would have liked to have changed on the frame is the finish. I wanted a bead blast finish and the Carver logo in brushed finish. The frame is brushed finish and a sticker logo. I'll live. Another thing that <em>might</em> have been nice is a tapered head tube but that is just a hunch since I don't have any experience with them.
<p>I have placed my order for the last part (the fork) so I will be posting about the assembly process soon.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-87420421073331070592012-12-15T23:25:00.000-08:002012-12-15T23:25:41.973-08:00Building My Bike: #2 The Plan<p>Oh my goodness, I am learning so much about bikes <em>and I haven't even started yet.</em> Headsets and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_fork#Offset">fork rake</a> and steerers and bottom bracket cable guides and <a href="http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/217854/titanium-anti-seize">anti-seize compound</a>. Wow.
<p>So, what's the plan? Here is what I need to tackle, in (planned) order:
<ol>
<li>Fork and Headset</li>
<li>Stem & Handlebar</li>
<li>Bottom bracket</li>
<li>Crankset & pedals</li>
<li>Cassette & wheels</li>
<li>Brakes</li>
<li>Derailleurs</li>
<li>Chain</li>
<li>Shifters</li>
<li>Front shifter cable</li>
<li>Front brake cable</li>
<li>Rear shifter cable</li>
<li>Rear brake cable</li>
<li>Saddle</li>
<li>Bar tape</li>
</ol>
<p>I don't have all the tools or parts yet. Here is my shopping list:
<ul>
<li>Fork</li>
<li>Wheels</li>
<li>Bottom bracket tool</li>
<li>Lube</li>
<li>Anti-seize compound</li>
<li>Cassette Lockring Tool</li>
<li>Need-nosed pliers</li>
<li>Wire cutters</li>
<li>Electrical tape</li>
<li>Chain whip</li>
<li>Spacers?</li>
<li>Bottom bracket cable guide</li>
</ul>
<p>There are three things that I won't have the tools for. One is installing the headset cups. Next is facing the head tube. The last is cutting the steerer tube (not complicated but I'm not going to buy a saw just for that).
<p>I wish I could get everything at once and attack the job in a weekend but, alas, I can't. On the other hand, I'll have time to blog about each phase. :-)MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-91615575890393910072012-12-06T13:29:00.000-08:002012-12-06T13:29:20.620-08:00Building My Bike: #1 The Decision<p>The plan was simple: order a frame. Pay a bike shop to transfer everything except the wheels and cables from the old bike to the new frame. Done. "New" bike.
<p>Except it isn't quite that simple. I was pretty sure I was going to have to buy a new fork, since the new headtube is longer than the old. Okay, so buy a new fork from <a href="http://bikeisland.com/">Bike Island</a> and headset from whereever and also give those to the bike shop.
<p>Then the frame finally arrived. I unpacked it, held it up, and looked at it. Wow, it sure is just a frame. Doesn't even have the plastic cable guide thing under the bottom bracket.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<p>Then I'm afraid I started thinking (a dangerous pastime, I know). A few months ago, <a href="http://www.flocycling.com/">Flo Cycling</a> posted a ebook called <a href="http://www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php">"How to Build a Road Bike"</a>, which I downloaded. Could I put this bike together myself? I'm not the handy-est guy in the world but I do okay with my bike. I have a stand and can give my ride a rudimentary tune-up. What's the worst that could happen? My bike comes apart as I'm flying down a hill at 50 mph. Yikes! Best not think about that one too much. Okay, what's the next worse that could happen? I make a mess of things and have to take everything in a box to my <a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=LBS&defid=539699">LBS</a> and have them put the bike together. What's the best that could happen? I learn a heck of a lot about my bicycle (and bikes in general), get some new skills (and tools), and I would be able to point to the bike and say, "I put that together."
<p>The benefits are too much to resist so I have decided to put my bike together. What am I most nervous about? Bar tape. I could never get that right when I was a kid. However, these days I am armed with the Flo book, my bike repair book, and the collective wisdom and videos of the internet.
<p>This isn't something that is going to happen overnight. I need a few more tools, the aforementioned fork, wheels, and...I think that's it. I'll document each project as I go, thinking that maybe it will help somebody else do the same thing. I'll also document why I chose this part instead of another one. This is bike building while trying to keep the budget down. If money wasn't an object, I wouldn't bother building it myself, you know?MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-62907681101434774772012-09-22T12:25:00.000-07:002012-09-22T12:25:49.648-07:00Michaelade<p>One of the bummers of not riding since my accident in May is that I was really getting my bike nutrition down. Last year I started experimenting with a recipe for my own drink to take on long bike rides and this year I started making my own "bars" to eat. While the bars still need some work, now is as good a time as any to share the drink recipe:
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<ul>
<li>1½ Tablespoons Table Sugar (85 calories)</li>
<li>1½ Tablespoons Dextrose (54 calories)</li>
<li>1/8 teaspoon <a href="http://www.baseperformance.com/product/base-electrolyte-salt/">Base Performance Electrolyte Salt</a></li>
<li>½ Teaspoon <a href="http://www.kraftbrands.com/koolaid/">Kool-Aid</a></li>
</ul>
Mix together with water in a <a href="http://www.camelbak.com/Sports-Recreation/Bottles/2012-Podium-Bottle-24oz.aspx">24 oz. water bottle</a>.
</blockquote>
<p>The story behind the recipe:
<p>A couple of years ago I was listening to <a href="http://competitorradio.competitor.com/2010/03/asker-jeukendrup/">a podcast on Competitor Radio</a> with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asker_Jeukendrup">Asker Jeukendrop</a>, a sports nutrition scientist. On the show, he talked about how glucose and fructose have different pathways to get absorbed by your body, so by consuming both (in about a 2-1 ratio--it's around 9:00 into the podcast) you would increase the amount of carbohydrates you can absorb compared to consuming either by itself. Makes sense. He also gave an amount of carbohydrates that people can typically absorb so I did some mental calculations (drinking every 15 minutes on the bike, typical amount per drink, 22 oz water bottle, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sucrose#Glycemic_index_and_by-products_of_sucrose">composition of sucrose (table sugar)</a>, taking in other food, etc.) and came up with 2 Tablespoons each of table sugar and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dextrose">dextrose</a>. That didn't sit so well in my stomach on long, hard rides, though, so I dropped down to 1½ Tablespoons each and that worked much better.
<p>What to do for electrolytes? I looked and looked but there aren't a lot of choices for electrolytes on their own. There are things like <a href="http://www.nuun.com/">Nunn tablets</a>, which act like Alka-Seltzer when you drop them in water. Unfortunately, they tasted like Alka-Seltzer, too. I found <a href="http://www.eletewater.com/">Elete Electrolytes</a>, a liquid that I could add to my drink but that wouldn't be so convenient to take along on long rides when it came time to refill my bottles. I used to crack open an <a href="http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/endurolytes.elt.html">Endurolyte</a> capsule and put its contents in my bottle but it doesn't dissolve in water so well. I finally settled on the Base Performance Electrolyte Salt (even though I have a sneaking suspicion that it is just re-packaged <a href="http://www.realsalt.com/">Real Salt</a>). Each container comes with a tiny measuring spoon and I scoop one of those in my water bottle. I tried using two spoonfuls but it was way too salty.
<p>As for the Kool-Aid, I needed to put some flavor in the drink. Sure, I could go with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/NutriFruit-Freezed-Dried-Mango-Powder/dp/B001L7Y3A4/">something all natural</a> but, frankly, I can get three servings out of a 20-cent package of Kool-Aid and there are a lot of flavors to choose from. I really don't think that it's going to kill me.
<p>Why come up with my own drink? Why not just buy a bucket of stuff they sell in bike shops? For one thing, I don't want to spend a bunch of money if I don't have to. What do I need this drink to do? Hydrate, replace electrolytes, and supply as many carbs as I can handle. Do I, a 49-year old, middle-of-the-pack triathlete, really need so-called cutting-edge nutrition? Or do I need some water, sugar, electrolytes, and flavor? I'll go with Door #2, if I can.
<p>A side note: I am training with Gatorade on the run. Why Gatorade and not Michaelade on the run? Because on the bike I have four water bottle cages that let me carry whatever I want. I can also put some drink mix in ziploc bags (which I can stash in a jersey pocket) to make more when I finish the bottles. I can drink higher-calorie drinks on the bike than I can on the run because of the pounding one's body takes on the run. On the run, even if I take a <a href="http://www.fuelbelt.com/">FuelBelt</a> with me, that will only last eight miles in the heat. During an iron-distance triathlon, I have to live off the course for drinks, though I plan on taking some gels with me. Gatorade lets me do that and it's what they have on <a href="http://www.vineman.com/triathlon/course_race02.htm">the Vineman course</a>.
<p>How does Michaelade compare to store-bought mixes? First, you have to remember that I don't know what I'm doing. Given that, though, I like the drink. It doesn't upset my stomach, and it, combined with other foods (<a href="http://www.snickers.com/">Snickers</a>, <a href="http://www.cranksports.com/products/eGel/">e-Gels</a>, and the aforementioned homemade bars) works for me on my rides. YMMV. Let's compare it to Hammer Nutrition's <a href="http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/heed-sports-drink.he.html?navcat=fuels-energy-drinks">HEED</a> and <a href="http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/perpetuem.pp.html?navcat=fuels-energy-drinks">Perpetuem</a>, and Skratch Labs' <a href="http://www.skratchlabs.com/collections/drinks/products/exercise-hydration-mix-1">Exercise Hydration Mix</a>:
<table border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th> </th>
<th>Michaelade</th>
<th>HEED</th>
<th>Perpetuem</th>
<th>Skratch EHD</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<th>Cost per 24 oz. bottle</th>
<td>$0.38</td>
<td>$0.66</td>
<td>$1.50</td>
<td>$0.98</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th>Calories per Serving</th>
<td>139</td>
<td>100</td>
<td>270</td>
<td>80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th>Sodium per Serving</th>
<td>290mg</td>
<td>40mg</td>
<td>220mg</td>
<td>310mg</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<th># of Flavors</th>
<td>11</td>
<td>4</td>
<td>3</td>
<td>4</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>What does all that prove about Michaelade? Well, the cost is cheaper, calories are okay, sodium is good, and a lot more flavors, for starters. The point of all this is that my homemade, relatively cheap sports drink is working for me. Will it work for you? Don't know. You could give it a try, make some adjustments, and see what happens. Or not. Remember, this is not cutting-edge research. It's just me trying to save some money in my triathlon hobby and if I can, you probably can, too.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-64952649476951821412012-09-05T13:22:00.000-07:002012-09-05T13:22:54.019-07:00The Year Ahead<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<p>So much for 2012.
<p>Accident in May. No running for two months. No bike 'til possibly November. Yeah, my 2012 triathlon season was a bust. Time to focus on 2013 and that focus can be summed up in one word: <a href="http://www.vineman.com/triathlon.htm">Vineman</a>. All my training between now and next July is in preparation for the Full Vineman Triathlon (an iron-distance event).
<p>Why Vineman? I have <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lisa.lopezbennett">a friend</a> from way back whose first stab at an Ironman <a href="http://tracking.ironmanlive.com/newathlete.php?rid=1143239903&race=/events/ironman/coeurdalene/&bib=747&beta=&1346876100">didn't work out so well</a> so she's going to attempt the distance again at next year's Vineman. When I saw that, I figured "Why not?". It's a full iron-distance event (2.4 mile swim, 112 bike, 26.2 mile run), the swim is done in a river (I can't do ocean swims), though the race will be in July the Northern California weather <em>should</em> be manageable, and the price is less than a WTC-affiliated event. It'll be nice to have someone I know in such a big race.
<p>So what does that mean training- and racing-wise? For starters, it means I'm not going to have the time to do a half-iron-distance race beforehand. There's just no room in the calendar for it, especially since I can't do ocean swims. Does that worry me? No, I know I can finish a 70.3. When I've had some pool time, swimming 1.2 miles isn't a problem. Riding 56 miles isn't a problem, either. And I've done four half-marathons. I'm familiar with all the legs and it would be just a matter of finishing.
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<p>I want to do a marathon beforehand. I want to know what running 26.2 miles feels like so I can (somewhat) prepare for that during a triathlon. Which one to choose, though? I'd love to run a big one like the <a href="http://www.lamarathon.com/">L.A. Marathon</a>. However, the logistics of getting to <a href="http://losangeles.dodgers.mlb.com/la/ballpark/index.jsp">Dodger Stadium</a> for the start, then getting back from Santa Monica at the end doesn't make me happy. There is a little group, <a href="http://www.rocketracingproductions.com/">Rocket Racing Productions</a>, that puts on small, low-key marathons (yes, plural) by the ocean in Santa Monica, that has piqued my interest. Fully supported. Experienced organizers. Start and end in the same place. Don't have to weave around 20,000 walkers. Did I also mention cheap ($49 for a marathon!)? They put on multiple races a month throughout the year. Wow! I'm aiming for one in February (they don't have their 2013 calendar up yet).
<p>Since the bike course <a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/29409742">is easy</a> (only 2200 feet of climbing), I don't have to hit the hills so hard. That and no track cycling means my thighs aren't going to get huge. It turns out that the little bit of track cycling I did and the tough climbing I was doing on the bike conspired to put some good muscle on my legs. I didn't know 49-year olds could put muscle on that easily but I did. There's another reason to hold off on track cycling: bike fit. From the first session, I started having <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_band_syndrome">IT Band Syndrome</a>. The next session made it worse. By the time of my accident it was getting better because I hadn't been on the track in a few weeks. The pain from the accident on my left side covered up the IT band pain on my right side. The IT band problem was likely due to poor bike fit, caused by my renting a bike because I don't have a track bike. If I leave track cycling for after Vineman, I won't have to deal with the extra weight from bigger legs. If I go back to the track, though, it's going to have to be on a bike I bought so it will fit properly. I'm thinking my bike training can be summed up on one word: long.
<p>I don't want to swim year-round (I still suffer burnout from <a href="http://www.maderaaquaticteam.com/">competitive swimming in my youth</a>) but I do want to be in good shape for Vineman so I'm not wiped out before getting on the bike. I know I can get in okay shape in a month, so I figure four months of training should do. That means I'll start swimming in April but that also means that I can't do the <a href="http://www.triathlon.ucla.edu/ironbruin/index.htm">IronBruin</a> next March.
<p><em>Maybe</em> I'll do a <a href="http://www.trievents.com/">sprint triathlon</a> in May or June but that's just an idea I'm tossing around in my head. I don't think I should do the <a href="http://www.santatothesea.com/">Santa to the Sea</a> half-marathon this December, so that will have to wait until 2013. Oh, and I need to do <a href="http://www.stopcancerrunwalk.org/faf/home/default.asp?ievent=1017740">a 5k race in October</a> (and another in March) to gauge how I will be training for the marathon (per <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Runners-World-Faster-Revised-3-Run-/dp/1609618025/">Run Less, Run Faster</a>).
<p>Right now I am running three or four days per week. A long run of no more than nine miles on Saturday, then some 5.5 mile runs on Sunday, and Tuesday and Thursday mornings. I have been running in the heat on weekends. During the race I will be starting my marathon in the afternoon so I want my body and mind to know what it's like to run in the heat. How much to drink. When to slow down. When to walk. I finally did a sweat test this past weekend and found that I sweat a half-gallon in an hour in moderate heat. Time to start testing drinking more on the run.
<p>So, the plan in a nutshell: Vineman in July. Marathon in February. Swim starting in April. Long-distance training on the bike (once it gets here in November). Stay healthy. Oh, and it would be nice if I could lose some weight.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-73453850676875161702012-08-27T13:34:00.000-07:002012-08-27T20:16:38.971-07:00Lance: A Lot<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<p>So, what's my take on the whole <a href="http://www.lancearmstrong.com/news-events/lance-armstrongs-statement-of-august-23-2012">Lance Armstrong thing</a>?
<p>For starters, a person can never <em>prove</em> that they haven't doped. Failing a drug test is proof that one has doped but passing a drug test is not proof that one hasn't doped. Proving a negative and whatnot. However, given the hundreds of drug tests that he has passed, and given that he hasn't failed any of them, I'm going to have to give Lance the benefit of the doubt on this one. <a href="http://www.lancearmstrong.com/news-events/lance-armstrong-responds-to-usada-allegation">He has stated unequivocally that he has not doped</a> (no <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weasel_word">weasel words</a>) and I have no reason to disbelieve him.
<p>Some would argue that winning the Tour de France seven times is proof enough that he doped. I would argue people forget that Lance Armstrong is an <em>extraordinarily</em> gifted athlete. A professional triathlete at age 16. Won the world cycling championship at age 21. Etc. He's just a freak.
<p>As for the allegations, whenever international conspiracies get mentioned, I start rolling my eyes. <a href="http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/08/news/usada-pushes-back-against-uci-request-for-armstrong-jurisdiction_233043">USADA alleges</a> that, not only did Lance's teams conspire to dope but that the UCI itself, cycling's governing body, was part of the conspiracy to cover up the doping. Really? The same UCI that stripped Floyd Landis and Alberto Contador of their Tour victories? The same UCI whose <a href="http://www.velonation.com/News/ID/7853/Pat-McQuaid-Interview-Part-I-Rival-leagues-Grand-Tours-and-the-Olympic-Games.aspx">President has a huge beef with Lance's team manager, Johan Bruyneel</a>? Why would the UCI cover-up for Lance Armstrong?
<p>Okay, so say I believed that Lance doped during his Tour victories. <a href="http://online.wsj.com/public/resources/documents/armstrongcharging0613.pdf">USADA also allege</a> that he doped during his 2008-2011 comeback. Why would he do that? He was already a multi-multi-millionaire, his <a href="http://livestrong.org/">Livestrong</a> organization was really ramping up, he already had his Tour victories, and he had to have known that the chances of another victory at the Tour de France were really slim (though he did take 3rd). Then there's the matter of being under a huge microscope because of his stature, age, and lingering suspicion of prior doping amongst some in the cycling world. Given all that, why would he risk it by doping? He had so little to gain and everything to lose by doping during his comeback. He'd have to be nuts to dope in that environment. Lance is not nuts.
<p>Then there are the allegations that his blood tests while with Astana, all of which he passed, look like he used EPO precisely because they don't look like he took EPO and, besides, USADA has (presumably immunized) witnesses. <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/othersports/lance-armstrong-vs-usada-what-are-we-to-believe/2012/08/24/62940afa-ee0a-11e1-afd6-f55f84bc0c41_story.html?socialreader_check=0&denied=1">Then why even bother with the drug tests?</a>
<p>My take, in a nutshell: Lance says he never doped, he passed all his doping tests, and USADA's allegations don't pass the smell test.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-61739217664212031102012-08-21T13:26:00.002-07:002012-08-21T13:27:08.541-07:00If the Bike Fits, Ride It<p>I have known that my old bike didn't fit me for a while. I had to raise the seat quite a bit to fit my long legs. The reach to the handlebars, which seemed a bit long already, was made worse by me having to lean down so much due to the high seat post, putting pressure on my hands. The bike's size was a compromise between my long legs and short torso but I knew that someday I could do better.
<p>While the accident totaled my bike's frame, the components (except the wheels) seem okay. That has allowed me to spend the money that would replace the bike with just a frame and have the components transferred over to it. What kind of frame, though? First, I don't want to mess with carbon. Carbon broke on the last bike and I don't want to deal with it being so fussy with its care. Plus I read about carbon frames having a lifespan of just several years so I don't want to deal with the hassle. Aluminum? Yeah, I could but I have a bit more money to spend than that. Titanium? Now we're talking. Even if I get hit again, titanium is really rugged. It's as light as carbon, too. Reviews of titanium frames are always positive. Okay, titanium it is.
<p>First off, though, I wanted to get a professional bike fit. Not a shop fit but by someone whose job it is to do bike fits. Get fit first, then get a frame based on that fit, then when the bike is assembled put the finishing touches on the fit while on the new bike. How does one shop for a bike fitter? I did it on the internet. I looked for a fitter that used <a href="http://www.retul.com/">Retül</a> and was <a href="http://www.slowtwitch.com/dealersurvey/fistcoaches.html">F.I.S.T.</a>-certified. I was going to be getting a road bike but if I want to get a tri bike down the road, I'd like to go to the same place. Then, once I got a (short) list, I visited the fitters' websites and checked online reviews. The fitter I came up with was Jim Manton at <a href="http://www.finalfit.com/">FinalFit</a>, down in Long Beach.
<p>The fit was interesting. You start off on the <a href="http://www.retul.com/retul-muve-fit-bike.asp">Retül rig</a>, which isn't a bike but you "ride" it like a bike. All parts of the rig are adjustable while you are riding, so your fitter can, say, move your seat up and down while you are pedaling. Oh, they also put motion capture dots down my right side. That allows them another view of my riding style. For instance, one of the things they measure is how much your knee moves from side-to-side while pedaling. It turns out mine only move a freakishly low 8mm, which is a good thing. At the beginning the focus was on seat position but I was anxious to get to the reach to the handlebars, which I knew was way off on the rig (like my bike). We did adjust the seat here and there and it did make a difference (I remember on one particular adjustment we could all hear me pedaling better). I ride 175 cranks and we even tried 177--too big; I was bouncing all over the place. Finally we got to the handlebars and I was so happy when we started moving them closer...and closer, and closer. We finally reached a point that felt great: I could lift my hands off the handlebars and not fall forward. Nice.
<p>I was able to have Jim tweak the cleats on my <a href="http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/men/cycling-shoes/trans.html">Giro Trans</a> road shoes. I had one nailed but couldn't seem to get the other one positioned right. Jim got it. Then he turned his attention to my <a href="http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftr/shoes/triathlonshoes/triventsport">Specialized Trivent Sport</a> triathlon shoes, which I could never get adjusted right. Jim pointed out that the cleats on those shoes are positioned farther in than my Giros. He did his best but they still didn't feel as good as the Giros. Jim mentioned that Shimano shoes are even worse (for me) than that. Good thing Giro has started making <a href="http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/men/cycling-shoes/mele.html">triathlon shoes</a>. Something to keep in mind for the future.
<p>I should also mention that the fit wasn't simply about dialing in number on the rig. They evaluated things like my flexibility and I filled out a questionnaire and discussed the type of riding I do and goals I have. For instance, was I interested in bike racing or did I just want to cruise around the neighborhood? It would make no sense for me to get a bike frame with an aggressive geometry that was great for racing criteriums when I don't do that.
<p>Two hours later, we had a position that we were happy with. End of part one. As Jim said, "Today we deal with centimeters. When you bring your bike in, we'll deal with millimeters." Now I had to order a bike frame and once that came in and was assembled, I would bring it in to get fitted on that. But what bike frame to order? Since I wanted titanium, the best place to go was also in Southern California: <a href="http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/">Adrenaline Bikes in Tustin</a>. I had looked at their website and a couple of very good options in my price range caught my eye: the <a href="http://www.sabbathbicycles.co.uk/">Sabbath</a> and <a href="http://www.carverbikes.com/">Carver</a> frames. Looking at my fit measurements (long leg, short torso) and after having talked on the phone with them, Jim suggested that I go with Carver. They impressed him during their conversations and could build me a custom frame in my price range. Why would I not want a custom frame?
<p>Two weeks later I made my way down to Adrenaline to place my order. I could have done it directly with Carver over the web but a) support your local bike shop when you can, b) going through Adrenaline wouldn't cost any more than going directly through Carver, c) easier to handle warranty issues with the LBS, and d) there are so many options when building a custom frame and I don't understand the pros and cons of most of them. The gang at Adrenaline were <em>very</em> helpful, patiently explaining each relevant option, and even recommending not adding options when they didn't make sense with other options. In the end, I ordered a fairly basic bike with curved seat stays. It will take 8-12 weeks to arrive (on a slow boat from Taiwan). Another post when that happens (late October, early November).MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-85372758843107597382012-08-11T22:12:00.000-07:002012-08-11T22:13:54.467-07:00The Accident<p>I call it "The Accident" because I hope there's no "The Next Accident" but we never know, do we?
<p>On May 24, I was just a few miles into my weekly 28-mile ride home from work. It's a pretty good route, mostly bike lanes. There are a few sketchy parts where I wish the road was more bike-friendly but it's fine. I was at a two-way intersection with a car across the way (a <a href="http://www.ford.com/suvs/escape/">Ford Escape</a>, actually). Cross-traffic had cleared so I looked at the car to make eye-contact with the driver. However, I couldn't see him so I started to slowly pedal across. He didn't move so I assumed he saw me so I kept pedaling. Then he started moving...right at me. He was headed so at me and was so close that the only thing I could do is go "Whoa! Whoa! Whoa!" and hope that hitting me broadside was the best of my options.
<p>So I get hit. It was a pretty slow speed hit (I'm guessing at most 20 mph) but it turns out your body does not like being hit by big hunks of metal at any speed. I was hit on my left leg. I remember flipping over my handlebars, maybe even the car's hood. I'm not sure what part of my body I landed on or on what I landed on but the large bump on my lower back suggested that I landed there. I don't know about you but the first thing that goes through my mind afterwards is, "OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH! OUCH!" All my brain feels is pain. I knew my leg hurt but I didn't feel anything specific, just pain. The driver is apologizing to me but I can't say anything. All I can do is limp, trying to walk the pain off. After a few minutes I am able to ask that somebody move my bike out of the road.
<p>Okay, time to take inventory. Leg hurts. Shoulder hurts near the collarbone. That might not be good. Felt the collarbone but couldn't feel anything broken. Notice that the tip of my right pinkie is in an unnatural position. Okay, that's either broken or dislocated. Hey, where did that blood on my jersey come from? Oh, my left thumb got scraped up, that's all.
<p>I didn't call the police because, while I was injured, I figured urgent care would be enough for me. In L.A., you don't call the police out for every car accident. After exchanging information, including that of a witness, I ask the guy who hit me if he can take me back to work (I drive my car to work with the bike, then I ride home, then take the train back to work the next day (though I was toying with the idea of riding back to work this time)) so I could drive home. He did. If I had to be hit by someone, I was glad it was this guy. Apologetic and very helpful.
<p>I was at my car and now comes the hard part: calling my girlfriend. She gets nervous about me riding my bike anyway and now I had to tell her that, not only did I have an accident, but that it was with a car rather than solo. It's nice to have someone at home that worries about me.
<p>I drove myself home, changed clothes (didn't want anybody slicing through my cycling clothes), and drove to urgent care. They took x-rays of my left leg/ankle/knee, lower back (which was already spectacularly swollen by this point), right hand, and right shoulder. Nothing broken. The Doctor did smush my pinkie back into place (ouch) and splinted it up. Got a precription for big ibuprofen and a muscle relaxant (both of which came in handy at bedtime) and I went home.
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This was the Thursday before Memorial Day weekend so I took Friday off, since I wouldn't be able to concentrate on my job anyway, and spent the weekend mostly on my back with my left foot elevated (my whole lower left leg was nicely swollen). When I went back to work on Tuesday, I was in sandals because my foot was so swollen. Stayed in sandals for the rest of the week (good thing this happened in spring). I was able to use a previous experience with leg swelling by getting on a (stationary) bike to help get rid of my leg swelling. Worked, too, but not right away. I had to wait a couple of weeks for my body to want to get rid of the swelling.
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I did take my bike into the local bike shop to inquire about repairs. It was while I was unloading the bike from the car that I noticed one of the carbon seat stays was badly damaged. Nevermind that the wheels were pretty messed up, too, if a seat stay is broken, then the frame is toast. The wrench at the shop confirmed this. The components seem okay but I, at the very least, needed a new frame (weeks later, I noticed a pretty good dent in the aluminum top tube, too).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<p>Followed up with an orthopedist, which eventually resulted in an MRI of my left knee, because he was afraid I had torn my ACL. The MRI showed no tearing, so I just stretched it pretty good. Found I had a sprained left ankle, too. Originally my left leg hurt so bad that I hadn't noticed the sprain. Funny. The pain in my left leg also blotted out the right IT-band pain I had been having. The doctor recommended I just have physical therapy.
<p>I had been in irregular contact with the driver who hit me and once the bills started piling up (totaled bike and PT), he turned it over to his insurance company. That was great because his insurance company loved writing checks to get things cleared up.
<p>Where I stand today is that this past weekend I went to a bike shop to order a new frame (more on this in another post). That will take a couple of months to show up. In the meantime I have started to ease into running. I am done with triathlons for the year, of course, so now the focus is on doing the <a href="http://www.vineman.com/triathlon.htm">Full Vineman</a> a year from now. I am skipping doing a HIM between now and then but I do want to do a marathon in that time. My left knee feels a bit unstable, my left ankle gets better every day, as does my shoulder (albeit more slowly).
<p>I have newfound empathy for any pedestrian or cyclist who is hit by a vehicle. I was lucky, in that my accident happened happened at a slow speed. It could have been much, <em>much</em> worse.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3775197414750172677.post-35237221738904331712012-05-01T13:24:00.001-07:002012-05-18T20:00:17.969-07:00ATOC Stage 6 - Plan BLast weekend's ride didn't go quite as planned. For starters, I am not in shape to do 7,000 feet of climbing yet. 5,000? Yes (barely) but not 7,000. Okay, so I can't ride Stage 6 up to Mountain High. What to do? How about faking it? Enter Plan B:<br/>
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<p>Now the plan is to start the ride no later than 8am from the actual <a href="http://www.cityofpalmdale.org/departments/parks/atoc/">starting line in Palmdale</a>. I'll ride the first few miles of the course but where the pros will make a right turn from Sierra Highway to the Angeles Forest Highway, I'll make a left onto Pearblossom Highway. I'll re-join the course when it turns onto Valyermo. I'll take that all the way up to the 2nd KOM at Mountain High. That's the theory, anyway.
<p>What's the point? Why not just park near the base of the big climb and ride up from there? Where's the fun in that? I'd like to start at the starting line but I am simply not able to do the Mt. Emma climb if I want to make it to Mountain High. This route lets me begin at the starting line and reach Mountain High while eliminating over 2,000 feet of climbing. That makes it (probably) do-able. If I leave by 8 <em>I think</em> I can beat them to the top. That's not a given, though.
<p>Back to last weekend's ride. It started off well enough in beautiful weather. I didn't leave the Acton train station until 12:30 but it wasn't a very hot day so that was no problem. This is a lonely ride (or so I thought). There are houses here and there but don't expect a lot of traffic or other cyclists. Unless you come across a bike race! I stumbled on the <a href="http://www.santaclaritavelo.com/specialevents/devil-s-punchbowl-road">Devil's Punchbowl Road Race</a>, which followed my route for several miles. What to do? I decided to hop in. It was a 16-mile circuit so the riders were pretty spread out. I was just cruising along, saving my energy for the big climb yet to come. I was getting passed by a bunch of riders, of course, but I managed to pass one! Poor guy, he must have really been in bad shape for me to pass him.
<p>Shortly after leaving the race course, the real climb was about to get started. However, a check of the time and how I was feeling told me that I should turn back. I only had eight miles to go but 2,000 feet of climbing. I knew the ride back itself had over 1,000 feet of climbing, which was going to be hard enough, so I needed to cut my losses. Hey, you don't really know if you're in shape for a ride unless you try it, right? My butt isn't in shape for a long ride, either, and the ride back involved taking a lot of breaks to get off the saddle. The total ended up being 58 miles, 3 1/2 water bottles, two homemade energy bars (topic for another post), a Snickers bar, and a burrito. Could have used more food.
<p>So, this new route has under 5,000 feet of climbing but is 39 miles in one direction. If I get riding by 7:30, I think making it up to the KOM marker is possible. Tough but possible. Not a sure thing, though. It's probably a crazy scheme and I'll like end up getting chased off the road by the CHP as the pros overtake me but you never know.MTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04717970386700496541noreply@blogger.com0